The Refinish Technician

One thing I have learned is that in order to be a great painter, by George do you need to be an even better prep/paint helper.  You must understand the painter is only as good as its prep.  You don't want dirt, sand scratches, fish eye, solvent pop, bleed through, and lordy only knows what other things you can come across.  Like a friend once told me, you will make mistakes and you better know how to  fix them.

Now, with waterborne paint on the rise, you better believe prep is even more important than ever.  Scratches will show more than solvent base paint.

Let's face it.  There is no "perfect job."  There is close to perfect but not perfect.  We are not machines.  So, knowing how to fix issues is KEY.

So what makes a good Refinish Technician?

In my opinion, the key to becoming a great Refinish Tech are having following habitats:

1)  Never stop learning/be open-minded
2)  Understand why issues happen and learn to correct the issue before  clear or even before basecoat and primer
3)  Know your materials
4)  Stay focused, rested and free from toxins, i.e. alcohol, or other mood altering agents
5)  Practice Perfect
6)  Visualize the steps and outcomes ahead of time, (like playing chess)
7)  A painter is a leader, act like one and lead by example
8)  Help your helper/s learn and improve, mold your  team!
9)  Help your business grow and they will help you
10) Stay POSITIVE

I'm sure I can add more but that pretty much sums it up.

Block Sanding 101 Part 2: Saving The Line and High Spot/Low Spot Identificaition

 Any bodyman will tell you that destroying a bodyline is one way to get on the shit list.  Even when you have to move fast and get cars moving, it's best to take the time and tape off and maintain the body line.  It may take a minute or two but as you practice, the faster and more creative you will get.

Now, after taping off the line. Begin sanding in an "X" pattern.  Up & down sanding is a big no-no due to the fact that the grit of the sand paper is parallel and primer build up will occur.  Why is it a big deal?  Simple, Primer build up will compress into tiny or large clumps and this in turn will scratch deep lines into your primed surface in turn requiring yourself to sand deeper to rid of the line.  the "X" pattern will reduce the chance of clumps greatly and increase productivity.  Always check sandpaper periodically for clumps and wipe off with a scuff pad if necessary.

While sanding with the appropriate block/stick/etc., be wary of dark spots and burns.  Follow these guidelines:

a)  High Spot:  This occurs when the surface/substrate is to high as oppose to the surrounding areas.  When sanding, filler and/or metal will reveal it self.  Body work will need to be performed to even the surface.  Always ask shop foreman/boss for advice if needed.
b) Low Spot:  This is the appearance of a dark spot, (darker if using guide coat), in the location where sanding.  When a large area of filler is applied, this is not that uncommon.  Continue sanding a little longer and if there is no improvement, stop sanding!  This is an immediate indicator that a low spot  is present and body work is to be performed.  Filler will need to be added.
c)  Pin holes/Solvent Pop:  This can happen if the primer isn't mixed correctly or to heavy of coats are used.  This can also happen if body filler was still wet or already had pin holes before primer application.  If holes are minor, spot putty can be used.  if holes are deep, body filler is STRONGLY ENCOURAGED AND A LIGHT COAT OF PRIMER WILL ALSO NEED TO BE APPLIED.
d)Trash:  Most trash that lands on primer can be flattened or sanded away.  If it doesn't go away, sand down to substrate or filler and reapply primer.
e)  Bare metal:  Metal conditioner or etching primer is  required.  Some urethane/epoxy primers can be used of small spots.

Well, that's it for now.  Till next  time.

A low spot was identified near the body line.  Body filler needs to be applied and re-primed

Each Straight tape outlines either the top or bottom of a body line.  Tape is also used to protect surrounding areas

         

To be continued.

Sanding by hand equals waves and how to quickly get rid of them bumpers for paint and make your boss super happy

I am fortunate to have many  mentors during my time as paint helper.  Some taught me good, some taught me bad.  Like my philosophy teacher says, "take a little of everything and apply it to your advantage."  I agree.  Now, I'm not saying bad things are good but in a high volume high turnaround surrounding, sometimes you need to go as fast as possible to get the desired outcome.

For example, let's say I have one front bumper that was repair on the corner and needed primed.  I know priming takes 15 mins to prep, spray, clean gun and work area.  Then, with about 2-3 hours, (using Advantage Urethane Primer Surfacer), it's ready to sand, spot putty, overall sanding, cleaned and given to painter for, well, painting.

Time to complete a primed bumper should take 45 min to 1.5 hours depending on condition.  The bumper should be fully ready for paint without any flaws.

Well, simple  right?  Not quite. Let's say it's 2 pm and your boss  says  that 3 primed bumpers need sanding and cleaned for the painter by the time you leave.  Easy?  Nope.  You just got thrown a "mission impossible." 

What do you do?  Do you move faster?  Yes, of course, but you also have to have a game plan instantly.  I can have all bumpers ready by 3:30 pm, guaranteed.  How?

Follow these steps:

1.  Game plan, i.e, have all materials you need ready and good to go
2.  Sand all primed areas first  using 320 wrapped around a scuff pad
3.  DA entire bumper with required grit, (someone say gameplan)?
4.  Spot puddy
5. Wet sand primed area
6. Wet sand rest of area
7. Grey scuff sides, corners etc.
8.  Grey scuff shiny spots if necessary,  tip!! Using a wet soft grey scuff to avoid sand scratch swelling
9. Clean with soap scuff or wax and grease remover
10.   Give to painter,  congrats, you made the company 1200 bucks or more in 1.5 hours

Now, why the title "Sanding by hand equals waves" when I'm talking about bumpers?  Easy, this shortcut will leave waves but not as noticable as you think.  Why, It's a curvey plastic bumper and the sandpaper with scuff pad method is a good way to prevent noticeable waves when done wisely.

Well, that's it for now!

The Art of Machine Polishing...Continued

So, today I made time to complete the vehicle.  I'm happy with the results!  I know I could have done better but with the time allotted, it's a success.  I literally finished 10 minutes till 5 pm.   I will post pics once its clean but here is what I got so far.

The pictures don't do it justice.  It looks like candy.   The owner came by and was amazed.  It felt good hearing a compliment from a collector of classic cars.

So, Mission accomplished... So far.

The Art of Machine Polishing/Buffing/Cut & Buff, whatever you wanna call it

Not everyone can say they can cut and buff a vehicle let alone someone saying, "I love to buff."  Let's face it, in the autobody industry, fast turnarounds is a must for most shops these days.  In fact, most shops won't touch a restoration due to the time it requires.  Theoritically, if I had a shop, I wouldn't even touch restorations unless I was passionate about it enough to dedicate my life to it.  Restorations is an entirely new world.  One thing is for sure, high paced shops and restorations DO NOT mix.

Now, with that said, below is a restoration we completed not too long ago.  The quarter panel among other things needed repainting and I was honored to cut and buff the painted areas, (I'm the only one capable of such amazing results).  I took some photos to document my "before" and "after" pics for my keeping and your viewing.

 In this project, I spent half the day carefully wetsanding and prepping this vehicle for machine polishing.  I was fortuanate to have been alotted extra time to complete this project but I fear tomorrow will be a different story.  Due to the high volume this location requires, I'm going to have to speed it up tomorrow.  I understand why but cars like this classic BMW deserves all the love they can get.  Hence my statement, "high paced shops and restorations DO NOT mix."  I can at least feel good that the owner will get my best work I can provide with the time not given.

So, here is what I got so far...

BEFORE

AFTER:

 

Other Pics

Above is the trunk.  I didn't put a before pic only because this part wasn't painted, just needed rebuffing.

So, tomorrows goal is to make time to get this job done right the first time!  Good luck to me :)

 

Devilbiss Plus gfg-670 Spudder Problem resolved...

My mighty Devilbiss Plus gun sputtered on me today but after tightning the 1.4 tip a bit more, the problem was solved, got a little nervous lol.  End

Nason Paint Review

So, on a budget eh?

Well,  so was I when I decided to venture into Carquest and purchase a pint of Metallic Silver paint.  Dupont was 99 bucks and Nason was 30.  Well, given it was a bumper job, I chose the lesser.   Good thing it paid off but I learned very quickly that you DO get what you pay for when it comes to just about anything.

Nason paint was lacking in solids period.  I noticed immediately when opening the can. I already knew that I needed less reducer and a hardener would have been a good idea but managed to save a few bucks with just the base and reducer.    I had to apply more coats than usual to cover a primed area and let me tell you, I was getting nervous.  After many coats later, I got what I needed from it but boy, it was nerve wrecking.

So,  I give Nason paint a primarily score of 3 out of 5, (subject to change with further experimentation).

Tips:
1.  Reduce wisely
2.  Flash times are fast
3.  More coats may be needed vs. other paints, i.e. Dupont and PPG
4.  Hardener wasn't used this time and  don't think it would have helped much in this setting

How was your experience with Nason?  Do tell :)