3m Disc Sandpaper: Adhesive vs. Hookit

3M claims to be durable, reliable and built  with quality, I agree.  However, not all disc sandpapers are the alike.

I used both the adhesive and Hookit type sanding discs and I can tell you that Hookit is the best.

Here are the pro's and cons of both:

Hookit Sanding Discs

Pros:

1.  Hookit allows  you to reuse the disc  sandpaper more often than its counterpart
2.  Works while wet and will not fall off when wet
3.   3M Hookit interface pad (part Number 05777) works great and only available for hookit type sanding discs
4.  Just  feels right.

Cons:
1.  Only available in large quantities
2.  Not readily available in autoshops
3.  Can't use on Durablocks unless you have 3M's Hookit Blocks (part  No. 05687, Large block)

Adhesive Sanding Discs

Pros:
1.  Can be used on Durablocks
2.  Available in almost all Automotive parts stores
3.  Cheaper especially since you don't have to buy in large quantities
4.  Can be reused*
5.  You can stick to the back of your buddy

Cons:
1.  Limited on times you can reuse
2.  Don't drop the disc unless you want  dirt and whatever else gets lifted from the ground
3.  No interface pad
4.  Adhesive not waterproof
5.  Not as  durable as Hookit counterpart

So, there you have it.  If your going to invest in Sanding Discs, spend the extra cash and buy the Hookit options, it will save you time and money in the short term.

Till next time.

-Noah

Valspar Paint and Review

I kept my finger's crossed till about the time I shot and boy I'm very please with Valspar.  The match was right on and the coverage was excellent when compared to its rival Nason.  I immediately notice the difference from when I opened the can and I'm very happy with  the results.  It's priced a little higher than nason  but given the material saved vs. cost, Valspar won this round.  Here's the vehicle I  shot using Valspar (metallic silver).

Valspar Metallic Silver
3 medium wet coats
2 coats clear

The lower bumper on both Right and left had deep scratches that needed filler/prime/paint.  The damage at the center of the bumper was repaired and also spotted.

Another view, the area above the emblem was spotted to hide putty used to repair stone chips.

Effect had moderate damage that was repaired using filler and repainted.

Another one down, black Hyundai Forte Hood

 

On this Hyundai Forte, there are fine scratches that look like they where made by a steel wool. I did the least aggressive method first and attempted to "cut and buff" to no success. 

The only other solution was to repaint over the damage. The scratches were not deep enough for primer, however, it took wetsanding with 400 then 600 to level the area to where painting can core the damage. 

(The picture above is how it looked after wetsanding).

This is the finished product. It took 3 medium coats to cover the scratches. 

After two coats of clear and a cut and buff, this vehicle was good to go.

Note:  The front bumper was spotted aswell. 

Lessons learned: 

1.  Black covers quickly and easily 

2.  Color matching is easier

3.  Black scratches are easier to see :)

DeVilbiss 803311 SRiPro Spot Repair Gun

Finally,  my next goal has been achieved!  Just ordered my Spot Gun!  Using the Plus gun for every repair was tuff but now that it has an ally, I'm very excited about what's to come.  I will  post a review in the future. 

Also, I will be giving the Dekups system a try.  Should be fun!

This Ford Focus was fun

This car was a little more work than expected but I'm glad that it came out great.  I had to spot paint the front and rear bumpers and cut off at the body line at the Quarter Panel.  This job was an econo job so I had cut costs by not removing as much parts as possible.

 

 

 

Here is a view of the after photo.  Color blends in nicely.

As you  can see, the bodyline on the Qtr. panel came in handy for this blend

Fender came out decent, Mission accomplished on this job.

Valspar Automotive paint 1 of 2

Last night I had the opportunity to use a new paint from a new distributor.  Valspar Automotive paint.   To give a quick summary, I have shot Dupont, Nason, & PPG.  I really adore Dupont because of the color matching ease, however, with budget/econo  jobs, going cheaper on the paint is necessary to make a profit.  Normally, nason would be my choice of econo paint, however, a new player has come to the table.

Valspar Paint is, so far, awesome.  I opened up the pint can I got from A-line and I immediately noticed the difference in color, thickness and quality.  I reduced it 75 percent than what it asked and shot the paint.  Before I continue, let me add that it was a silver metallic.

The paint shot clean, color looked great both on the test panel and bumper and needed 3 coats to cover primer spots vs nason where i  used several more coats.

So far, Valspar shows a great promise in budget/econo paint.  I'm going to buy again today for this black Hyundai Forte I just got in,  I  will post an update soon...

-Fingers Crossed-

What I have learned in a few weeks...

Now that I'm painting, blending, spotting, I can truly say the following:
1.  Learn the prep side of the job as much as possible and never stop learning
2.  Master the buffing techniques
3.  Follow your mind, heart, and gut
4.  No FEAR
5. Positive thinking
6.  Pause and rest before shooting, don't be wound up or stressed
7.  Learn to sand paint defects
8.  Don't be lazy
9.  Learn from your mistakes
10.  Take in advice
!!11.  Visualize your strategy before you shoot!!!
12.  ADAPT AND OVERCOME, NEVER GIVE UP OR DOUBT YOURSELF

A little over a month later...

So much has changed in the past month and it was a great move to embark in a new journey.  I moved on from Eagle and moved into a new position, Automotive Painter, (in training).  I have to admit, the last few weeks have been like painting bootcamp.  See, in this training, I do not have room for error.

In the past, I read, watched and practiced surface preparation, painting small parts and spent many moments visualizing best practices and form.  All this training has for sure came into play these last few weeks in my en devours.  I have painted over 10 cars already and none have failed and they looked great!  Of course, trash, sags and other defects came across but I fixed them all only needing to repaint/spot one time.  Even the infamous "silver Metallic" was a success!

Here are some photos of just a few of my  accomplishments.

Right Fender and Right side of Bumper was damaged during a minor traffic accident.  Only glaze was needed to fill in large chips and scrapes.  I don't have a photo of the complete bumper with damage, however, I assure you, it was bad.

 

 

This is an example of what I was dealing with, it wasn't the worst but good thing 3m spot putty stage 3 was around to save the day.

This is the  outcome I came out with.  The fender damage and repair made the blend easier to accomplish and the stone chips was a challenge but a blend was still achieved especially near the hood.  Mottling wasn't an issue but doesn't mean it can happen if I'm not careful.

The damage on this vehicle was significant.  We managed to get the repair done to customer satisfaction.  This job required more black paint and painting inside the trunk.

Here is the outcome.  I had to use a basecoat that was similar to the same color.  It came our great!  Customer was ecstatic.

This repair included this lower portion of the drivers qtr. panel, bed gate and bumper, (2 portions).  There was a hard line making a spot job achievable.  This job had pearl.  My first 3 stage attempt.  I had to do a layout card to assure the correct amount of pearl would be applied.

Here's the gate.

Here's on side of the bumper, the other side was similar in damage/repair.

Here is the outcome of the qtr panel spot.

Gate completed

Bumpers right out of the paint booth.

The Refinish Technician

One thing I have learned is that in order to be a great painter, by George do you need to be an even better prep/paint helper.  You must understand the painter is only as good as its prep.  You don't want dirt, sand scratches, fish eye, solvent pop, bleed through, and lordy only knows what other things you can come across.  Like a friend once told me, you will make mistakes and you better know how to  fix them.

Now, with waterborne paint on the rise, you better believe prep is even more important than ever.  Scratches will show more than solvent base paint.

Let's face it.  There is no "perfect job."  There is close to perfect but not perfect.  We are not machines.  So, knowing how to fix issues is KEY.

So what makes a good Refinish Technician?

In my opinion, the key to becoming a great Refinish Tech are having following habitats:

1)  Never stop learning/be open-minded
2)  Understand why issues happen and learn to correct the issue before  clear or even before basecoat and primer
3)  Know your materials
4)  Stay focused, rested and free from toxins, i.e. alcohol, or other mood altering agents
5)  Practice Perfect
6)  Visualize the steps and outcomes ahead of time, (like playing chess)
7)  A painter is a leader, act like one and lead by example
8)  Help your helper/s learn and improve, mold your  team!
9)  Help your business grow and they will help you
10) Stay POSITIVE

I'm sure I can add more but that pretty much sums it up.

Block Sanding 101 Part 2: Saving The Line and High Spot/Low Spot Identificaition

 Any bodyman will tell you that destroying a bodyline is one way to get on the shit list.  Even when you have to move fast and get cars moving, it's best to take the time and tape off and maintain the body line.  It may take a minute or two but as you practice, the faster and more creative you will get.

Now, after taping off the line. Begin sanding in an "X" pattern.  Up & down sanding is a big no-no due to the fact that the grit of the sand paper is parallel and primer build up will occur.  Why is it a big deal?  Simple, Primer build up will compress into tiny or large clumps and this in turn will scratch deep lines into your primed surface in turn requiring yourself to sand deeper to rid of the line.  the "X" pattern will reduce the chance of clumps greatly and increase productivity.  Always check sandpaper periodically for clumps and wipe off with a scuff pad if necessary.

While sanding with the appropriate block/stick/etc., be wary of dark spots and burns.  Follow these guidelines:

a)  High Spot:  This occurs when the surface/substrate is to high as oppose to the surrounding areas.  When sanding, filler and/or metal will reveal it self.  Body work will need to be performed to even the surface.  Always ask shop foreman/boss for advice if needed.
b) Low Spot:  This is the appearance of a dark spot, (darker if using guide coat), in the location where sanding.  When a large area of filler is applied, this is not that uncommon.  Continue sanding a little longer and if there is no improvement, stop sanding!  This is an immediate indicator that a low spot  is present and body work is to be performed.  Filler will need to be added.
c)  Pin holes/Solvent Pop:  This can happen if the primer isn't mixed correctly or to heavy of coats are used.  This can also happen if body filler was still wet or already had pin holes before primer application.  If holes are minor, spot putty can be used.  if holes are deep, body filler is STRONGLY ENCOURAGED AND A LIGHT COAT OF PRIMER WILL ALSO NEED TO BE APPLIED.
d)Trash:  Most trash that lands on primer can be flattened or sanded away.  If it doesn't go away, sand down to substrate or filler and reapply primer.
e)  Bare metal:  Metal conditioner or etching primer is  required.  Some urethane/epoxy primers can be used of small spots.

Well, that's it for now.  Till next  time.

A low spot was identified near the body line.  Body filler needs to be applied and re-primed

Each Straight tape outlines either the top or bottom of a body line.  Tape is also used to protect surrounding areas

         

To be continued.

Sanding by hand equals waves and how to quickly get rid of them bumpers for paint and make your boss super happy

I am fortunate to have many  mentors during my time as paint helper.  Some taught me good, some taught me bad.  Like my philosophy teacher says, "take a little of everything and apply it to your advantage."  I agree.  Now, I'm not saying bad things are good but in a high volume high turnaround surrounding, sometimes you need to go as fast as possible to get the desired outcome.

For example, let's say I have one front bumper that was repair on the corner and needed primed.  I know priming takes 15 mins to prep, spray, clean gun and work area.  Then, with about 2-3 hours, (using Advantage Urethane Primer Surfacer), it's ready to sand, spot putty, overall sanding, cleaned and given to painter for, well, painting.

Time to complete a primed bumper should take 45 min to 1.5 hours depending on condition.  The bumper should be fully ready for paint without any flaws.

Well, simple  right?  Not quite. Let's say it's 2 pm and your boss  says  that 3 primed bumpers need sanding and cleaned for the painter by the time you leave.  Easy?  Nope.  You just got thrown a "mission impossible." 

What do you do?  Do you move faster?  Yes, of course, but you also have to have a game plan instantly.  I can have all bumpers ready by 3:30 pm, guaranteed.  How?

Follow these steps:

1.  Game plan, i.e, have all materials you need ready and good to go
2.  Sand all primed areas first  using 320 wrapped around a scuff pad
3.  DA entire bumper with required grit, (someone say gameplan)?
4.  Spot puddy
5. Wet sand primed area
6. Wet sand rest of area
7. Grey scuff sides, corners etc.
8.  Grey scuff shiny spots if necessary,  tip!! Using a wet soft grey scuff to avoid sand scratch swelling
9. Clean with soap scuff or wax and grease remover
10.   Give to painter,  congrats, you made the company 1200 bucks or more in 1.5 hours

Now, why the title "Sanding by hand equals waves" when I'm talking about bumpers?  Easy, this shortcut will leave waves but not as noticable as you think.  Why, It's a curvey plastic bumper and the sandpaper with scuff pad method is a good way to prevent noticeable waves when done wisely.

Well, that's it for now!

The Art of Machine Polishing...Continued

So, today I made time to complete the vehicle.  I'm happy with the results!  I know I could have done better but with the time allotted, it's a success.  I literally finished 10 minutes till 5 pm.   I will post pics once its clean but here is what I got so far.

The pictures don't do it justice.  It looks like candy.   The owner came by and was amazed.  It felt good hearing a compliment from a collector of classic cars.

So, Mission accomplished... So far.

The Art of Machine Polishing/Buffing/Cut & Buff, whatever you wanna call it

Not everyone can say they can cut and buff a vehicle let alone someone saying, "I love to buff."  Let's face it, in the autobody industry, fast turnarounds is a must for most shops these days.  In fact, most shops won't touch a restoration due to the time it requires.  Theoritically, if I had a shop, I wouldn't even touch restorations unless I was passionate about it enough to dedicate my life to it.  Restorations is an entirely new world.  One thing is for sure, high paced shops and restorations DO NOT mix.

Now, with that said, below is a restoration we completed not too long ago.  The quarter panel among other things needed repainting and I was honored to cut and buff the painted areas, (I'm the only one capable of such amazing results).  I took some photos to document my "before" and "after" pics for my keeping and your viewing.

 In this project, I spent half the day carefully wetsanding and prepping this vehicle for machine polishing.  I was fortuanate to have been alotted extra time to complete this project but I fear tomorrow will be a different story.  Due to the high volume this location requires, I'm going to have to speed it up tomorrow.  I understand why but cars like this classic BMW deserves all the love they can get.  Hence my statement, "high paced shops and restorations DO NOT mix."  I can at least feel good that the owner will get my best work I can provide with the time not given.

So, here is what I got so far...

BEFORE

AFTER:

 

Other Pics

Above is the trunk.  I didn't put a before pic only because this part wasn't painted, just needed rebuffing.

So, tomorrows goal is to make time to get this job done right the first time!  Good luck to me :)

 

Devilbiss Plus gfg-670 Spudder Problem resolved...

My mighty Devilbiss Plus gun sputtered on me today but after tightning the 1.4 tip a bit more, the problem was solved, got a little nervous lol.  End

Nason Paint Review

So, on a budget eh?

Well,  so was I when I decided to venture into Carquest and purchase a pint of Metallic Silver paint.  Dupont was 99 bucks and Nason was 30.  Well, given it was a bumper job, I chose the lesser.   Good thing it paid off but I learned very quickly that you DO get what you pay for when it comes to just about anything.

Nason paint was lacking in solids period.  I noticed immediately when opening the can. I already knew that I needed less reducer and a hardener would have been a good idea but managed to save a few bucks with just the base and reducer.    I had to apply more coats than usual to cover a primed area and let me tell you, I was getting nervous.  After many coats later, I got what I needed from it but boy, it was nerve wrecking.

So,  I give Nason paint a primarily score of 3 out of 5, (subject to change with further experimentation).

Tips:
1.  Reduce wisely
2.  Flash times are fast
3.  More coats may be needed vs. other paints, i.e. Dupont and PPG
4.  Hardener wasn't used this time and  don't think it would have helped much in this setting

How was your experience with Nason?  Do tell :)

Block Sanding 101 Part 1

Okay, the overview I am about to explain is one of MANY ways to block sand a vehicle.  There's much debate on the "right way" but I have my own ways.  As you practice, you learn more and you adapt.  Below I will demonstrate 1 of my techniques.

Tools:
Durablocks
Paint mixing stick
320 dry grit sand paper
400 wet grit sand paper
1000 grit wet sand paper
Grey scuff pad
3m Guide coat
DA (optional, use carefully)
Spot putty w/spreader
3m masking tape  1/2 inch



Target:
Right Fender with many curves and filler work

Important Notes:
When filler is involved, it is important to RESPECT THE BODY GUY/GALS WORK.  Body work is not easy and they do there best to recreate body lines, curves, etc.  Be smart and take your time when block sanding to maintain and yes help shape while your sanding
To be continued, gotta get to work :)

Before sanding, tape areas you don't want sanded.  Next, determine if bodyline taping is necessary.  If If I'm not sure, I will ask a bodyman where the filler work was performed.  He/she will normally be happy to show you!

Then apply guide coat.

When sanding, I use several methods and tools.   One of my favorite tools is the paint stir stick.  It's flat, light weight and always flat vs the Durablock that is big and bulky and can bend over time.  I do switch it up depending on the feel and type of job.

 

 Above is the paint stick method with 320 grit sand paper

 Durablock method with 320 grit sand paper

One technique I find useful is using a round Durablock to sanding the round top of this fender.  I do this method first then I sand the flat parts slightly blending the top round part together.

Below I show myself using a DA but this is optional.  Review my posts below on this method.

 

The tool below is a handy blow tool that  will help get rid of dusting while sanding and also help with the cleanup. I got this one from Cornwell.

One important note is to remember to lightly sand the edges with 320 also.

This picture shows the top half of fender 320'd and now the bottom half is next.

 (Remember the tape helps keep the bodyline.  Don't forget to put tape over the sanded area once you finish the top half.  Keep the line!)

Below shows a completed fender using 320.  Now it's time for 400 wet.

My buddy wetsanding and also wetsand the spot puddy I applied prior to wetsanding with 400 wet.

Tips:
1.  apply  spot puddy  after 320 drysand.
2.  Keep your sanding tool clean to avoid build up that WILL scratch the primed surface.
3.  Keep an eye on high spots/low spots and notify your bodyman/supervisor.  Don't let it go  unless told to do so!
4.  Wet rags keep the water flowing when wetsanding.
5.  Clean up as you go.

Well, that was quick and if you have any q's.  Just ask.

Sand paper guide for the Auto Refinish Technician

A question that comes across every new tech's mind is what grit sand paper to use?  Here is a guide to help you out!

Blends/panel blends:
Grey scuff dry/Grey scuff softened by water preferred to reduce the chance of sand scratch swelling.
1500 Grit/1200 Grit/ 1000 Grit/800 Grit, (be wary of paint burn)

Primer Sanding, (2k),
320 Dry, 400 wet , (every shop is different, ask for there guide on this one)

Black paint:
400 Grit/600 Grit/800 Grit
Dark paint covers scracthes very well

Metallic Colors/paint:
1000 Grit/1200 Grit/1500 Grit/Grey Scuff
Very easy to get sand scratch, be careful and be smart

White Paint:
Same as the Black

Single stage paint:
400 grit

Acrylic Enamel:
400 grit

Prior to Prime:
320 Dry/Red Scuff

New Bumpers:
400 grit wet or dry or my favorite, grey scuff with soap/scuff soap

Feather Edging:
180 then 320 then 400

Buffing:
1200 Grit or Higher
Very rarely to do want to use anything lower!  i.e. run off removal

and I will post more when time permits!

Dual Action Sanders!

I have the PS4612 DA Sander from Snap On and let me tell you, it has never let me down.  Of course there are other sanders out there but I didn't what to venture out and try something new when I knew I could take a safe bet with Snap On.  I was 300.oo bucks news but well worth it!  

The DA is a necessory weapon in your arsenal.  It can, scratch that, it will save  you time!  As you use your DA, love it and treat it well.  Oil it, clean it and please don't leave it on the ground ever!!!  Keep it where you can see it and keep it close.  Take care of your investment.


Now, where am I headed with this post?  Well, easy!  I want to give some tips and strategies that can save you time and money.  And time permitting, I want to give my do's and don'ts.

So let me start with time saving techniques.  

1.  Use your DA to sand off the target first.  Don't DA forever, just a quick couple passes to where you know in your mind you can wetsand the rest with ease, (yes, I said wetsand).

2.  DO NOT spend too much time DA'ing a spot for too long unless you know what your doing.  I have to admit I do this sometimes to sand away a dirt nib or piece of unwanted debris I missed during cleanup prior to DA'ing.

3.  Don't use a used/spent up Sanding disk but also be sure to make good use of it as well, don't want to be wasting now.

4.  Be thorough and don't get sloppy with the technique you will develop.  Never miss a spot.

5.  ALWAYS have the following with you:
a.  blower, i.e. pocket blowing, (looks like a pen)
b.  one gray scuff and one red scuff, (I will explain later)
c.  One razor blade, ( love my little portable blade)
d.  a piece of glaze/putty spreader
e. spot putty

6.  DO NOT slap-a-disk or slap-a-block with a stick to clean clogged up disk or sand paper, use the scuff.  It's faster and saves time.  I don't know where that "slap" technique came from but it needs to be forgotten.

7.  3m Interlace pad it very useful and can produce cleaner sanding and very handy with curvy rounded surfaces.

Next, here are some techniques that will save you time and give you a great professional surface that your painter will love.

1.  After DA'ing the surface, wetsand!  It will remove the "circles/swirls DA's leave and it will leave a smooth flat surface.  Remember, some surfaces require using a block to keep surface even but most shops use hands to save time.  You make the decision.
2.  Tape off areas you don't want sanded.  You don't want to DA a panel that's not going to be painted, the boss will be pissed off lol.  
3.  Always wetsand after DA'ing!  But remember, every shop is different and yes sometimes some jobs it won't be necessary to Wetsand at all.  

4.  If you good and/or brave enough, DA the guide coated primed surface for a short amount of time the proceed with blocking.  It WILL save time but you must be smart about it.  Waves/unevenness will occur if your not careful!!!  I sometimes DA the primed surface for a little bit then grab my Durablocks and finish off to save time and keep shape.

Quick overview on how to get them headlights shiny...

So here's a quick run down of how to get them foggy/yellowish headlights shiny again.  It's important to note that it is NOT a permanent fix!  For better results, get them headlights clear coated.    Any bodyshop can help you or you can do it yourself!

Prices-
Normally a quick headlight clean at a retail/bodyshop/or detailer can run you anywhere from 9.99-19.99 sometimes more depending on the situation.   You can do it yourself but your looking at 14.99-29.99 for a kit, you would need the necessary tools, i.e. drill, buffer etc. Of course anyone with  the know how will do it no prob but for the average joe, it can be a hefty investment.

I rather clear coat the lamps but that can cost yeah anywhere from 30.00-80.00 depending on where you go.

Will, with that said, here we go...

First, you will need the following:
1) Compound (I used 3m perfect-it compound and Norton Liquid Ice compound) 
2) Fine grit sand paper, (for this example I used 1000 grit then 1200 WET)
3) Buffer or drill with attachments (pads)
4) clean towel, I always use microfiber
5) another rag wet to help clean up mess
6) Tape if needed to  protect surrounding areas, (didn't need it here)
7) POLISH IS NICE BUT OPTIONAL

Sanding

After wiping area of dirt, sand with 1000* grit sandpaper.  Sand all lamps first to save time.  While sanding, you will see yellow residue drip off the lamp. Sand till smooth then repeat with 1200 grit wet. 

 After sanding wipe area and lamps will look cloudy.

Buffing

Apply a small amount of compound and carefully buff.  Apply more compound if you feel the need to do so.  You will notice the shine reappearing.  After compound, apply polish and buff, (optional).

Cleanup

Clean-up your mess with a wet rag then dry with a dry rag.  This should be the result:

 BEFORE:                                               AFTER:

 AFTER:

NOTE:

Experience and practice will give you a better understanding of buffing.  Many of the steps in this how-to can be utilized on your car when removing  small scratches.  I could have used an 800  grit sand paper to help get rid of the yellow also but I made the decision to use 1000 to make the compounding easier since the smaller the scratches, the easier it is to fill with compound.

I have so much to type but little time, if you have a q. just ask and I will tell you how and/or why.

Till next time...