Block Sanding 101 Part 1

Okay, the overview I am about to explain is one of MANY ways to block sand a vehicle.  There's much debate on the "right way" but I have my own ways.  As you practice, you learn more and you adapt.  Below I will demonstrate 1 of my techniques.

Tools:
Durablocks
Paint mixing stick
320 dry grit sand paper
400 wet grit sand paper
1000 grit wet sand paper
Grey scuff pad
3m Guide coat
DA (optional, use carefully)
Spot putty w/spreader
3m masking tape  1/2 inch



Target:
Right Fender with many curves and filler work

Important Notes:
When filler is involved, it is important to RESPECT THE BODY GUY/GALS WORK.  Body work is not easy and they do there best to recreate body lines, curves, etc.  Be smart and take your time when block sanding to maintain and yes help shape while your sanding
To be continued, gotta get to work :)

Before sanding, tape areas you don't want sanded.  Next, determine if bodyline taping is necessary.  If If I'm not sure, I will ask a bodyman where the filler work was performed.  He/she will normally be happy to show you!

Then apply guide coat.

When sanding, I use several methods and tools.   One of my favorite tools is the paint stir stick.  It's flat, light weight and always flat vs the Durablock that is big and bulky and can bend over time.  I do switch it up depending on the feel and type of job.

 

 Above is the paint stick method with 320 grit sand paper

 Durablock method with 320 grit sand paper

One technique I find useful is using a round Durablock to sanding the round top of this fender.  I do this method first then I sand the flat parts slightly blending the top round part together.

Below I show myself using a DA but this is optional.  Review my posts below on this method.

 

The tool below is a handy blow tool that  will help get rid of dusting while sanding and also help with the cleanup. I got this one from Cornwell.

One important note is to remember to lightly sand the edges with 320 also.

This picture shows the top half of fender 320'd and now the bottom half is next.

 (Remember the tape helps keep the bodyline.  Don't forget to put tape over the sanded area once you finish the top half.  Keep the line!)

Below shows a completed fender using 320.  Now it's time for 400 wet.

My buddy wetsanding and also wetsand the spot puddy I applied prior to wetsanding with 400 wet.

Tips:
1.  apply  spot puddy  after 320 drysand.
2.  Keep your sanding tool clean to avoid build up that WILL scratch the primed surface.
3.  Keep an eye on high spots/low spots and notify your bodyman/supervisor.  Don't let it go  unless told to do so!
4.  Wet rags keep the water flowing when wetsanding.
5.  Clean up as you go.

Well, that was quick and if you have any q's.  Just ask.

Sand paper guide for the Auto Refinish Technician

A question that comes across every new tech's mind is what grit sand paper to use?  Here is a guide to help you out!

Blends/panel blends:
Grey scuff dry/Grey scuff softened by water preferred to reduce the chance of sand scratch swelling.
1500 Grit/1200 Grit/ 1000 Grit/800 Grit, (be wary of paint burn)

Primer Sanding, (2k),
320 Dry, 400 wet , (every shop is different, ask for there guide on this one)

Black paint:
400 Grit/600 Grit/800 Grit
Dark paint covers scracthes very well

Metallic Colors/paint:
1000 Grit/1200 Grit/1500 Grit/Grey Scuff
Very easy to get sand scratch, be careful and be smart

White Paint:
Same as the Black

Single stage paint:
400 grit

Acrylic Enamel:
400 grit

Prior to Prime:
320 Dry/Red Scuff

New Bumpers:
400 grit wet or dry or my favorite, grey scuff with soap/scuff soap

Feather Edging:
180 then 320 then 400

Buffing:
1200 Grit or Higher
Very rarely to do want to use anything lower!  i.e. run off removal

and I will post more when time permits!

Dual Action Sanders!

I have the PS4612 DA Sander from Snap On and let me tell you, it has never let me down.  Of course there are other sanders out there but I didn't what to venture out and try something new when I knew I could take a safe bet with Snap On.  I was 300.oo bucks news but well worth it!  

The DA is a necessory weapon in your arsenal.  It can, scratch that, it will save  you time!  As you use your DA, love it and treat it well.  Oil it, clean it and please don't leave it on the ground ever!!!  Keep it where you can see it and keep it close.  Take care of your investment.


Now, where am I headed with this post?  Well, easy!  I want to give some tips and strategies that can save you time and money.  And time permitting, I want to give my do's and don'ts.

So let me start with time saving techniques.  

1.  Use your DA to sand off the target first.  Don't DA forever, just a quick couple passes to where you know in your mind you can wetsand the rest with ease, (yes, I said wetsand).

2.  DO NOT spend too much time DA'ing a spot for too long unless you know what your doing.  I have to admit I do this sometimes to sand away a dirt nib or piece of unwanted debris I missed during cleanup prior to DA'ing.

3.  Don't use a used/spent up Sanding disk but also be sure to make good use of it as well, don't want to be wasting now.

4.  Be thorough and don't get sloppy with the technique you will develop.  Never miss a spot.

5.  ALWAYS have the following with you:
a.  blower, i.e. pocket blowing, (looks like a pen)
b.  one gray scuff and one red scuff, (I will explain later)
c.  One razor blade, ( love my little portable blade)
d.  a piece of glaze/putty spreader
e. spot putty

6.  DO NOT slap-a-disk or slap-a-block with a stick to clean clogged up disk or sand paper, use the scuff.  It's faster and saves time.  I don't know where that "slap" technique came from but it needs to be forgotten.

7.  3m Interlace pad it very useful and can produce cleaner sanding and very handy with curvy rounded surfaces.

Next, here are some techniques that will save you time and give you a great professional surface that your painter will love.

1.  After DA'ing the surface, wetsand!  It will remove the "circles/swirls DA's leave and it will leave a smooth flat surface.  Remember, some surfaces require using a block to keep surface even but most shops use hands to save time.  You make the decision.
2.  Tape off areas you don't want sanded.  You don't want to DA a panel that's not going to be painted, the boss will be pissed off lol.  
3.  Always wetsand after DA'ing!  But remember, every shop is different and yes sometimes some jobs it won't be necessary to Wetsand at all.  

4.  If you good and/or brave enough, DA the guide coated primed surface for a short amount of time the proceed with blocking.  It WILL save time but you must be smart about it.  Waves/unevenness will occur if your not careful!!!  I sometimes DA the primed surface for a little bit then grab my Durablocks and finish off to save time and keep shape.

Quick overview on how to get them headlights shiny...

So here's a quick run down of how to get them foggy/yellowish headlights shiny again.  It's important to note that it is NOT a permanent fix!  For better results, get them headlights clear coated.    Any bodyshop can help you or you can do it yourself!

Prices-
Normally a quick headlight clean at a retail/bodyshop/or detailer can run you anywhere from 9.99-19.99 sometimes more depending on the situation.   You can do it yourself but your looking at 14.99-29.99 for a kit, you would need the necessary tools, i.e. drill, buffer etc. Of course anyone with  the know how will do it no prob but for the average joe, it can be a hefty investment.

I rather clear coat the lamps but that can cost yeah anywhere from 30.00-80.00 depending on where you go.

Will, with that said, here we go...

First, you will need the following:
1) Compound (I used 3m perfect-it compound and Norton Liquid Ice compound) 
2) Fine grit sand paper, (for this example I used 1000 grit then 1200 WET)
3) Buffer or drill with attachments (pads)
4) clean towel, I always use microfiber
5) another rag wet to help clean up mess
6) Tape if needed to  protect surrounding areas, (didn't need it here)
7) POLISH IS NICE BUT OPTIONAL

Sanding

After wiping area of dirt, sand with 1000* grit sandpaper.  Sand all lamps first to save time.  While sanding, you will see yellow residue drip off the lamp. Sand till smooth then repeat with 1200 grit wet. 

 After sanding wipe area and lamps will look cloudy.

Buffing

Apply a small amount of compound and carefully buff.  Apply more compound if you feel the need to do so.  You will notice the shine reappearing.  After compound, apply polish and buff, (optional).

Cleanup

Clean-up your mess with a wet rag then dry with a dry rag.  This should be the result:

 BEFORE:                                               AFTER:

 AFTER:

NOTE:

Experience and practice will give you a better understanding of buffing.  Many of the steps in this how-to can be utilized on your car when removing  small scratches.  I could have used an 800  grit sand paper to help get rid of the yellow also but I made the decision to use 1000 to make the compounding easier since the smaller the scratches, the easier it is to fill with compound.

I have so much to type but little time, if you have a q. just ask and I will tell you how and/or why.

Till next time... 

How-to's

Soon  I will be publishing how-to pics and even maybe videos for you do it  yourself'ers.  So stay tuned, (I hear an echo since I'm technically talking to myself here:)

Buffing done carefully, P.S. no swirl marks for Noah!

Buffing is something a buffer can  take pride in, at least I do!  I get better  every time!  Whether it be dirt nibs, run offs, orange peel or restorations, I really take my buffing seriously and everyone knows it!

If anyone buffs  out there, I hope  I'm not the  only one putting  paper and tape to protect and reduce clean up time!  Some guys just slap the compound on, but why?  Why waste material?

Anyways, here is one of my master pieces!  This customer wanted a complete detail, he didn't have the cash for a paint job.  Lucky I was around!

The good ole days

(Far Left is me with hair, next to me is Delbert, Rene in the middle, Jose next to Rene and Andreas to the far right)

One thing I have to admit is that while work can be tough, you meet and work with some of the best in the industry!  Delbert, Rene and Jose left to other opportunities but yet we keep in close contact.  Whether it be advice, help or just hello, we always will be brothers in arms.

And if your wondering why I'm dressed so nice, our estimator was gone for a couple weeks and I was her backup.

Good times! Another day in Paradise!

Devilbiss Plus gfg-670--OLDIE BUT GOODIE

Had this Paint gun for little over a week and I'm very happy with it!  Lays clear like glass!  With that said, I would keep it as a clear gun and only use for base on large projects!  Heavy but good for beginners like myself!

Noah the buffer/Corvette

Since we got our  new  painter, looks like my buffing skills have come in handy for the shop!  Cool thing is I get to test out ideas and perfect my skills further!

Victim:  90'ish Red Corvette
Symptom:  Orange Peel!!!
Reason: too much sealer/no sanding
Mission:  Color Sand and try to save the job
Outcome: Success!!!!
 Really wish I had more photos, best example was the hood of the corvette where I buffed half and left the other half for comparisons... This job took 4.5 hours due to the amount of color  sanding it needed!

Lessons Learned from spot painting!

Well, I can say I learned  a lot from last weeks mission and  here it is:

1.  Appreciate your materials!  Every penny counts!
2.  Cheap material can be costly in the long run!!!
3.  Prep is 90 percent everything in a successful job!
4.  More pressure  for your Paint Gun!
5.  A gun meant for spot painting i.e. Sata Minijet  is a must!!!!!
6.  Think before you shoot!!!
7.  Be confident
8.  Be prepared to sand and buff lol
9.  Cheap paint requires less reducer!
10.  Don't give up!

I'm very  happy I did this job!  I learned so much!  Prepping is awesome but painting really opens your eyes to a whole  new world!

My first spot job continued!!!

So, the next morning i woke up excited knowing what was next!  All I was thinking of was, man, that  economy nason paint from carquest better be a damn good match!!

After sanding the primer with 320 dry then 400  wet, I sanded nearly half the bumer w/1200 and prepped for  painting! I modified the paper to accommodate the blend!

 Here's another view before I brought out the wax and grease remover!

Next, it's SHOWTIME!!  
I spotted the first few coats  to cover the primer and light  scratches...  then I began blending!

 I can already  tell the color was a little off but not to bad!  I  proceeded w/the transtar clear and presto!!!   This is what we got!

MISSION ACCOMPLISHED!

After a  light buffing, it was done and my buddy was jaw dropped!  My wife, friend and myself were proud and astonished!!!

My first spot job!!

So much has changed this month!  Got a new paint gun, Devilbiss Plus!  Finally got  the buffing backplate for  my Dewalt Buffer and finally had the opportunity to test out my theories to help a friend!  

Thanks to Kevin, I got a hold of a 2013 bumper, I forget what car but UJ was the paint code lol.  Amazingly I wasn't nervous and was very excited about this opportunity.  I got to put my training to the test...

The bumper had a large gash!  First, I needed to solder the plastic back together before the sanding begun!  Kevin helped with that!  Good thing he had a soldering gun!

After that, sanding with  180 began,  Tried to smooth out the unevenness on this substrate!

 

 Second I applied the finishing putty and out came out the  180 again... I had to apply twice to make it as flat as possible!

 After that, I primed with 2k and walla!   Note to self, stay clear of cheap primer for next time :)  I left the primer  overnight for the morn!

In the morn, the fun began! Prep for paint!!!

Life of an Auto Refinish Tech

It's been almost a year at LY Eagle Paint and Body and all I can say is wow!  Fast paced, high pressure learning has turned this hombre into a Refinish Technician.  Although, I haven't passed the ASE Cert. yet, (missed by one point!!!), I can say I have never been so confident in handling any vehicle in my radar! 

Working at Frank's Car Care in Liberty Hill, TX was a huge advantage also since it got me used to the feel of motor vehicles so thanks Frank for the teachings!!!

Now brings a new topic,  what to do now?  Should I stay at Eagle?  Or is it time to move on and see what's out there?  Hmm...